About Yarn and Knitting

Is it normal to see flowers  when doing the mattress stitch  ?? For some strange and unknown reason, I was able to memorize the mattress stitch technique by visualizing flowers. HORIZONTAL MATTRESS SEAM: The two leaves of the flower represent a stitch. When I have to join two rows together (horizontal seam), I visualize a road between the rows and I have to pick up each flower (stitch) by passing the tapestry needle behind them... VERTICAL MATTRESS SEAM: And when I have to join two rows together (vertical seam), I imagine that I have to pull on the stem by passing the needle between the two leaves... I'm sharing this mattress stitch tip hoping it may help visual learner like me!

When knitting stranded colorwork (fairisle), it is often easier to knit in the round, always on the right side of the work. It is also easier to read the pattern if you always working in the same direction, knitting on the right side from right to left. This is why the "steeking" technique was invented: to be able to knit in the round (in a tube) and to be able to create an opening (or openings) by cutting the knitting afterwards.   The following video tutorial shows you this technique from start to finish and you will also find under this video the written explanations with illustrations to learn how to prepare the steek before opening and how to cut the knitting!  STEP 1: To make a steek, we will normally increase 5 stitches at the location where the opening will be created later.  These 5 stitches will then be cut in the center and are usually knitted by alternating the 2 colors of your colorwork. In the example below, our steek is composed of a blue, beige, blue (center), beige, blue stitches: STEP 2: After binding-off the stitches, use a yarn slightly smaller than your work yarn and using a hook, secure the center stitch of the steek by poking the hook behind the "left leg" of the stitch to the right of the center stitch and behind the "right leg" of the center stitch (identified in red above). Using your hook, grab and pull the yarn behind these two "legs" as shown below: Repeat all the way to the top to secure the steek opening by pulling one stitch behind each "leg" (shown in red below)... STEP 3: Finish the first side by cutting the yarn and passing the yarn through the last loop (stitch) and then turn the knitting 180 degrees to repeat the same thing on the other side of the center stitch as shown below (identified in pink) STEP 4: When both sides of the center stitch are secured, use a sharp pair of scissors for best precision and cut the middle of the center stitch (bottom up or top down doesn't matter, as long as you make sure to cut the center of the stitch). STEP 5: Once you have cut the steek and opened the fabric, fold the remaining stitches of the steek inside the fabric and secure it with a piece of yarn and a tapestry needle. Have fun working your steek: the technique may scare you the first time but you will see that it is very easy to do! Happy Knitting!!

Short Rows - What is it exactly? This is a way of knitting the stitches back and forth without knitting to the end of the row, which means that there are stitches remaining at the end of the row when you turn the knit. The short rows are used to adjust the volume of the knit: either to create a relief in a knit, such as for the hollow of the heel in a sock, for example, or to change the shape / direction of a flat knit.   Right Image - source: http://www.purlwise.com/short_rows/ Several effects can be created with short rows! We are happy to offer several knitting patterns with short rows that you will find at the very bottom of this page! 👇👇👇  How to knit Short rows Many knitters dread (and even avoid!) Patterns containing short rows. Firstly because the short rows require a little more concentration to find one's way: when one does not knit the rows to the end, it sometimes becomes more difficult to give oneself benchmarks and to follow the instructions. In addition, we may end up with a small hole in the place where we wrapped our knitting. To solve this small hole problem, several techniques exist. The most common is the technique of winding the next stitch before turning (or "wrap & turn"). You can discover it on Knit Spirit TV just HERE The German Method or "German short rows" A few years ago I discovered the German method more commonly called the "German short rows". I like this method that produces a rather transparent look and without holes! So for much of you, we have prepared this video to illustrate this method and you will also find the explanations written below.     Here is how to knit the short rows using the German method: when you have turned your knitting and you are ready to knit your first row short, with the yarn in front , slip the stitch as if to purl and pull the yarn behind the work by pulling slightly so as to stretch the stitch on the needle. This way of pulling the yarn will have the effect of creating a "double stitch" composed of 2 strands that cross and wrap on the right needle. If the next stitch is a knit stitch, knit the stitch as you normally would. If the next stitch is a purl stitch, bring the yarn back (the yarn will have gone around the needle from behind and back in front) and purl the next stitch. On the next row, when you need to knit the previously wrapped knit, knit the two strands that are stretched on the needle together as you would normally knit a stitch or purl as instructed by the pattern. Substitute the "Wrap & Turn" for the "German Short Rows"  If you knit a pattern that suggests the "wrap & turn" method but you prefer to use the German method, here's what you need to know: When the pattern says, “wrap the stitch and turn," ignore this instruction and simply knit back. In the next row, when the pattern says, for example, "knit 5 back", you slip the first stitch as explained above and knit 4 back (the first stitch being slipped ...). Remember to subtract one stitch from the next row since the first slipped stitch is included in the number of stitches to work. That's it ... it's as simple as that :) Now that you have the tools, why not grab your needles and put your new knowledge to the test? Happy knitting!  

HOW TO SUBSTITUTE YARN IN A KNITTING PATTERN To substitute the suggested yarn in a knitting pattern, here's what you need to consider: CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ORIGINAL YARN FIBERS: Merino wool, alpaca, cotton, hemp… STYLE: Hairy, woolen, silky, number of ply COLOR TYPE : Solid, striped, gradient, speckled? YARN WEIGHT: Lace, sport, fingering, worsted… LENGTH (YARDAGE) & SKEIN (OR BALL) WEIGHT THE FINAL USE OF KNITWEAR Is it a seasonal garment? Durability (will be worn in shoes?) Softness (worn on the skin or over a sweater?) Maintenance (must be machine washable?) Drape (must be smooth or needs toning). Was the yarn in the original pattern knitted with larger needles than the recommended size to achieve an openwork effect? Stranded colorwork (fairisle) ideal with woolen yarn Must be feltable (choose an untreated wool, i.e. the yarn must not have the mention "superwash") CALCULATION TO SUBSTITUTE THE REQUIRED QUANTITY Here is how to calculate the amount of required yarn when using a different yarn than the one suggested in a knitting pattern. NOTE :  If the yarn specifications are not identified in the pattern, Google and Ravelry.com will always be your best allies!   ORIGINAL YARN SUBSTITUTE YARN Collection Louise Robert Algua Marina Katia Concept Seacell Cotton 70% silk, 30% seacell 250 meters / 100 grams Gauge : 20 to 22 sts = 10 cm Sug needles : 3 / 4 mm 75% cotton, 25% lyocell 120 meters / 50 grams Gauge: 21 sts = 10 cm Sug needles : 3 / 3.5 mm Quantity required to knit the pattern in the chosen size : 5 skeins See the answer below … Calculation of the meters required to knit the pattern : 250 meters x 5 skeins = I need a total of 1250 meters   Calculation of the quantity required in the substitute yarn : 1250 meters ÷ 120 meters = 10.41 rounded to 11 balls   MAKE SURE TO MEET THE SUGGESTED GAUGE SUGGESTED GAUGE 10 STITCHES & 11 ROWS = 10 CM² In most patterns, the number of rows suggested in the gauge is not very important since you can easily add or subtract rows to get the required length. On the other hand, the number of stitches must be the same to get the right knit size (unless you are knitting a shawl or other garment for which the final size is not important) but take note of the following: NOTE: a different gauge could mean that you will use more or less yarn than indicated in the pattern so be sure to take this into consideration!  👇👇👇 TO GET THE PRINTABLE VERSION OF THIS POST, CLICK HERE!

Here is a technique that allows you to cast on stitches to knit socks "toe-up". This type of cast on is known as a "toe-up" cast on that is called the "Turkish Cast-on". This video is in french with english subtitles and is followed by illustrated explanations in pictures.  1 – Start with a slip knot about 30-40 cm from the end of the yarn.  2 – Align your 2 needles so that they point to the right and place the slip knot on the bottom needle.  3 –Wrap the yarn connected to the ball by going behind the needles from the bottom up and in front of the needles from top to bottom. 4 – Wrap 1/4 number of the total number of stitches (for a 32 stitch cast on, wrap around 8 times). 5 - Pull on lower the needle to work on the stitches on the top. 6 –Knit what will become the first stitch of the top, the yarn must stay in the front of your cable (which will close the last stitch at the bottom.) 7 –Knit the upper stitches. At this point the "stitches" will be very loose, this is normal! 8 –Once you've knit all the stitches, turn your hands clockwise, taking care to keep the right side of the work in front of you. 9 – Your slip knot is now on the top cable. 10 – Push the upper needle on the stitches and pull on the lower needle to work on the upper stitches. 11 –Remove the slip knot and pull on the yarn to untie it. Use the two strands as they are (one strand in front and one strand behind the cable) to knit the upper stitches. 12 –You will double the number of stitches on the top needle... 13 – Once all the stitches are knit, turn the needles clockwise taking care to always keep the right side facing you.. 14 –Now that your needles point to the right, push the needle up and pull the needle down. 15 –Use the 2 strands again to knit the upper stitches using the needle at the bottom. 16 – You will double the stitches of the second half.. 17 – That's your finished cast on! 18 – I suggest you cut the tail of the yarn, so as not to confuse it with the working yarn! Tips and tricks: You have to be familiar with the "magic loop" to follow these explanations. When you are ready to knit, your needles always point to the right. Always use the bottom needle to work the upper needle. Always keep the right side of the knitting in front of you when handling your needles: the common mistake of beginners is to turn the work on the wrong side ... To use the strands as they are, when the strand is in front of the cable, it is because it will form a stitch on the next round. If you are missing a stitch during the cast on process, it is because you have failed to follow this instruction. Make sure you have a good quality circular needle. Practice makes perfect: give yourself the chance to learn this technique of casting on, you will certainly appreciate it once acquired! We offer a number of knitting patterns to practice this technique in our online store !

This technique is often used to start the knitting of a shawl. It is a way of casting on the stitches around a small tab of garter stitch to avoid the formation of a "hollow" at the base of the shawl, in order to produce a nice uniform border. This technique is referred as "Garter tab cast-on". That said, you will find my own version of this technique in the following video since I introduced the use of a NEKO cable needle and I use my left needle to pick-up the stitches on the left side of the garter tab. As a picture is worth a thousand words, discover all the details in this video:

In this knitting tutorial, learn how to sew two rows of stitches together using the grafting technique, also known as "kitchener stitch". The grafting technique is often used to close the toe of a sock, for example. You will also see it on the shoulders of a sweater or in the assembly of a "granny style" blanket.

Whether a newbie knitter or a more experienced one, the world of knitting patterns has a language all its own. Understanding knitting terms and how to correctly produce them is key to producing a finished product that looks like the picture and fits as expected. In this knitting terms tutorial, I hope to provide you with the understanding you need to grasp knitting terms and create a beautiful finished product. CC or Contrast Color and MC or Main Color The knitting term CC stands for Contrast Color and is used in projects with striping in conjunction with Main Color (MC). As you follow the pattern, you will be prompted to switch from MC to CC and back again according to the size of the stripes. Frogging Frogging doesn’t refer to a child’s game nor an amphibious creature. In the knitting world, frogging is the term knitters use to discuss unraveling or pulling out a section of work to correct a mistake. Since no one likes having to rip out stitches, maybe it’s got a fun name to make it less painful. Knit 2 Together or K2tog Knitting two stitches together is a commonly used technique to decrease the number of stitches in a row. It’s a relatively easy technique to execute. Simply put the working needle through two stitches instead of one and complete a knit stitch as normal, pulling the yarn through both stitches and slipping them both off the needle.  Knit Through Back Loop or ktbl Knitting through the back loop makes knit stitches look slightly different. This technique sounds complicated by name, but it’s actually fairly simple. Normally, a knit stitch is completed from front to back. With ktbl, the working needle is placed through the back of the loop from right to left and then knit as normal. Purl Two Together or p2tog The knitting term p2tog is similar to k2tog. It’s another technique for reducing the number of stitches in a row, but instead of decreasing on the knit side, you decrease on the purl side. To do this, slip your working needle through two purl stitches, purl as normal, pulling the yarn through both stitches and slipping both stitches off the needle.  SSK SSK or slip, slip, knit is yet another decrease technique. By slipping two stitches onto the working needle and knitting the third. Then one or both of the slipped stitches will be psso (slipped over the knit stitch) to create a leaning decrease.  YO or Yarn Over A yarn over is an increase technique commonly used in making lacey patterns. It’s a simple yet elegant technique that creates an additional loop by taking the yarn and wrapping it around the needle. The challenge: make sure it creates only one loop. Wrapping too many times creates multiple loops! The knitting world has many terms, but these are some of the most commonly seen and confusing one. Mastering knitting terms enables you to complete your projects faster. You spend less time looking up terms and more time doing what you love – knitting. What other knitting terms confuse you? Let us know and maybe they’ll be in a future post!