Sheep Breeds and Their Fibers in Hand Knitting

Sheep Breeds and Their Fibers in Hand Knitting

Sheep Breeds and Their Fibers in Hand Knitting

Introduction

The world of hand knitting is intimately connected to the quality and characteristics of the fibers used. Among natural materials, sheep's wool holds a prominent place, offering a remarkable diversity of textures, fineness, and properties that directly influence the final result of textile creations.

Each sheep breed produces wool with unique characteristics, shaped by centuries of evolution, adaptation to specific environments, and in some cases, human selection. These differences manifest in the fineness of fibers (measured in microns), their length, crimp, elasticity, luster, and many other properties that determine not only the feel of the yarn but also its strength, warmth, and behavior during knitting.

For knitting enthusiasts, understanding these nuances allows for judicious selection of wool suited to each project. A delicate scarf worn close to the neck will require a particularly soft and fine fiber, while a robust outdoor sweater will benefit from a more resistant and potentially less processed wool.

In this article, we will explore the main sheep breeds whose fibers are prized in the world of hand knitting. We will examine their origin, history, the technical characteristics of their wool, and the types of projects for which they are particularly recommended. From the incomparable fineness of Merino to the strength of Blue Faced Leicester, through the versatility of Corriedale, the heritage value of Rambouillet, or the colorful richness of Shetland, each breed offers unique creative possibilities that deserve to be known and explored by any knitting enthusiast.

Merino Wool

yarn with merino sheep wool

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Origin and History

Merino wool comes from Merino sheep, a breed whose history is as rich as the quality of its fiber is exceptional. Originally, these sheep lived in Asia Minor, but they were quickly introduced to Spain where they underwent significant development.

Over the centuries, Merino sheep have spread to several regions of the world, with Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa as the main breeding territories. Australia has particularly distinguished itself by becoming the world's leading producer of this prized wool.

The value of Merino wool was such that in the 18th century, exporting these sheep from Spain was punishable by death, illustrating the economic and strategic importance of this textile resource.

Fiber Characteristics

Merino wool is primarily distinguished by its exceptional fineness. The fibers are classified into several categories according to their diameter in microns:

  • Ultra-fine (11.5 - 15 μm): This is the most luxurious and expensive quality, comparable to cashmere and angora in terms of softness.
  • Superfine (15 - 18.5 μm): This quality begins to compete with cashmere, but its limited production makes it a relatively expensive fiber.
  • Fine (18.6 - 19.5 μm): The majority of Merino garments available on the market are made with this quality of wool.
  • Medium (19.6 - 22.9 μm): Although less fine, this quality remains suitable for certain garments worn close to the skin.

Each Merino sheep can produce between 3 and 6 kilograms of wool per year, a remarkable productivity that contributes to the availability of this fiber on the global market.

Properties and Recommended Uses

Merino wool possesses properties that make it a preferred choice for many knitting projects:

  • Thermoregulating: It maintains a stable body temperature, keeping warm in winter and cool in summer.
  • Moisture absorption: It can absorb up to 30% of its weight in water without feeling damp.
  • Odor resistance: Its natural antibacterial properties limit the development of odors.
  • Incomparable softness: Particularly in its finest qualities, it can be worn directly on the skin without irritation.

These characteristics make Merino an ideal choice for garments worn close to the body such as thermal underwear, socks, hats, scarves, and fine sweaters. Its softness makes it particularly suitable for projects intended for people with sensitive skin and for baby clothes.

Ethical Considerations

It should be noted that some breeders practice mulesing on Merino sheep, a controversial technique aimed at preventing parasitic infections. This practice raises important ethical questions, and many wool producers are now turning to alternative methods that are more respectful of animal welfare. Knitters concerned about these aspects can look for wools certified as "mulesing-free" or from organic farms. We at Biscotte Yarns prioritize obtaining mulesing-free certification for each of our hand-dyed yarn lines.

Blue Faced Leicester (BFL) Wool

yarn with BFL sheep wool

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Origin and History

Blue Faced Leicester wool (often abbreviated as BFL) comes from a sheep breed originating in the United Kingdom. This breed is the result of a relatively recent British development in the history of domestic sheep.

Blue Faced Leicester is primarily raised on small British farms, and its wool is purchased through the British Wool Marketing Board. A notable characteristic of this production is its reduced ecological footprint compared to other wools like Merino, which can travel enormous distances between shearing, processing, and marketing. Indeed, the cleaning and Superwash treatment (application of a protective resin) are carried out in England according to high environmental standards, governed by European legislation.

This proximity between the place of production and processing gives BFL wool added value in terms of environmental sustainability, an aspect increasingly valued in the contemporary textile industry.

Fiber Characteristics

Blue Faced Leicester wool presents several distinctive characteristics that clearly differentiate it from Merino wool:

  • Fiber length: BFL fibers are remarkably long, giving them superior strength once spun.
  • Fiber thickness: Between 24 and 28 microns, compared to 20-21 microns for standard Merino (and down to 17 microns for the finest qualities).
  • Crimp: The fibers have a characteristic wave pattern that contributes to their elasticity and drape.
  • Luster: BFL wool is more lustrous than Merino, which tends to be more matte.

The Blue Faced Leicester sheep itself has a distinctive appearance, sporting long curly locks that fall along its muscular flanks, unlike the Merino which is often described as "a ball of fluff."

Properties and Recommended Uses

Blue Faced Leicester wool possesses properties that make it an excellent choice for certain specific types of projects:

  • Exceptional strength: Its fiber length gives it remarkable durability, to the point that it is often possible to use it without adding nylon for projects requiring great durability.
  • Characteristic drape: The fiber structure creates a recognizable and elegant drape in knitted garments.
  • Softness/strength balance: Although slightly less soft than Merino, it offers an excellent compromise between comfort and durability.

These characteristics make BFL a particularly suitable choice for socks (thanks to its natural strength), shawls and stoles (for its elegant drape), as well as outerwear that requires both warmth and durability. Its natural luster also makes it attractive for projects where visual appearance is important.

Corriedale Wool

yarn with Corriedale sheep wool

Credit: Royalty-free image - Pixabay

Origin and History

Corriedale wool comes from a sheep breed that takes its name from its development in New Zealand. The Corriedale is the result of a successful cross between the Merino sheep and the Lincoln, a long-fiber breed. This crossing aimed to combine the best qualities of each breed: the fineness of the Merino and the fiber length of the Lincoln.

This development resulted in a medium-sized sheep, without horns and with balanced proportions, capable of adapting to different environments. The breed then spread to other regions of the world, becoming an important source of intermediate quality wool.

The Corriedale represents an excellent example of successful sheep breeding, creating a versatile breed that meets specific needs in terms of wool production.

Fiber Characteristics

Corriedale wool presents several technical characteristics that distinguish it:

  • Production: Each adult sheep can produce between 5 and 7 kg of wool per year, a considerable amount that contributes to its availability on the market.
  • Fiber thickness: From 22 to 34 microns, which places it in an intermediate category between very fine wools like Merino and more rustic wools.
  • Fiber length: From 8 to 13 cm, offering a good length for various spinning techniques.
  • Appearance: Uniform and creped wool, with regular crimp.
  • Main qualities: Luster and relative softness, although less fine than Merino.

This combination of characteristics makes Corriedale wool a versatile fiber, neither too fine nor too thick, which finds its place in many textile projects.

Properties and Recommended Uses

Corriedale wool possesses properties that make it a particularly interesting choice for certain types of projects:

  • Versatility: It allows fine to medium spinning, adapting to various techniques and desired results.
  • Accessibility: Recommended for beginners in spinning due to its ease of handling.
  • Adaptability: Once spun, it can be knitted, crocheted, or woven with excellent results.
  • Comfort: Its relative softness makes it suitable for creating comfortable garments and blankets.
  • Felting: It offers excellent results for felting projects.
  • Value for money: More affordable financially than other finer fibers, it represents a good compromise for many projects.

These characteristics make Corriedale a wise choice for knitters looking for an intermediate quality wool, offering a good balance between softness, durability, and price. It is particularly suitable for sweaters, vests, blankets, and accessories that will not be in direct contact with the most sensitive skin areas.

Rambouillet Merino Wool

yarn with Rambouillet sheep wool

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Origin and History

Rambouillet Merino wool comes from a sheep breed of Spanish origin, imported to France in 1786 to Rambouillet. This importation was a notable historical event, as it was the subject of a secret clause in a treaty with Spain during the reign of Louis XVI, illustrating the strategic importance of this textile resource at the time.

The acclimatization of these sheep in France was facilitated by Philibert Chabert, director of the École vétérinaire d'Alfort, as well as by several wealthy breeders who contributed to their own adaptation trials. What makes this breed particularly remarkable is that it has received no input from other flocks since its initial importation, being bred in reasoned consanguinity at the Bergerie nationale de Rambouillet.

During the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century, the Rambouillet Merino was used intensively to improve the wool aptitudes of various breeds of sheep, not only in France but also in many other regions of the world.

Fiber Characteristics

Rambouillet Merino wool presents technical characteristics that make it an exceptional fiber:

  • Fineness: Between 18 and 22 microns, which places it among high-quality fine wools.
  • Staple length: Between 60 and 70 mm, offering a good length for spinning.
  • Quality: White, abundant, fine, elastic, and resistant.
  • Fleece weight: Up to 8 kg in rams, a remarkable production.
  • Coverage: The fleece covers the entire body except for the extremities of the head and limbs.

These characteristics make Rambouillet Merino wool a prized fiber for its fineness and consistent quality, inherited from centuries of rigorous selection.

Properties and Recommended Uses

Rambouillet Merino wool possesses properties that make it particularly suitable for certain uses:

  • Hardiness: Coming from a sheep very well adapted to dry climates, this wool maintains excellent resistance.
  • Fineness and softness: Its fineness makes it an ideal choice for garments worn close to the skin.
  • Elasticity: It offers excellent return to the initial shape, ideal for pieces that need to maintain their structure.
  • Homogeneity: Rigorous selection has resulted in a remarkably consistent quality fiber.

These characteristics make Rambouillet Merino an excellent choice for fine and delicate knitting projects, exceptional garments, and pieces that require both softness and structure. Its heritage value also adds a cultural and historical dimension to creations made with this wool.

Particularities and Conservation

It is important to note that the Rambouillet Merino is a breed of exceptional heritage value. The entirety of the flock is found at the Bergerie nationale de Rambouillet, where it is managed with particular attention to preserving its genetic diversity, despite a narrow genetic base.

Since 2005, INRA (National Institute for Agricultural Research) has participated in the management of matings, and embryo cryopreservation measures have been put in place to preserve this unique genetic heritage. This conservation dimension adds cultural and historical value to the wool from these sheep, in addition to its remarkable technical qualities.

Shetland Wool

yarn with Shetland sheep wool

Credit: Royalty-free image - Pixabay

Origin and History

Shetland wool comes from a sheep breed native to the Shetland archipelago in Scotland, a region with particularly harsh climatic conditions. This breed belongs to the group of Northern European short-tailed sheep and is closely affiliated with the extinct Scottish Dunface breed.

What makes the Shetland sheep particularly remarkable is its status as a natural breed, meaning it has not been significantly modified by human action over the centuries. This preservation of ancestral characteristics is largely due to the geographical isolation of the Shetland Islands.

In the early 20th century, the Shetland breed was threatened by crossbreeding, which led to the creation of the "Shetland Flock Book Society" in 1927, an organization still responsible for protecting these sheep on their islands of origin. After being classified as "endangered" in the 1970s, the breed experienced a resurgence in popularity, particularly due to the exceptional quality of its wool.

In 2011, Shetland sheep wool produced in the Shetlands obtained Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status under the name "Native Shetland Wool," becoming the first non-food product to receive this status in the United Kingdom.

Fiber Characteristics

Shetland wool presents technical characteristics that make it a fiber prized by textile artisans:

  • Fleece size: Between 0.9 and 1.8 kg per sheep, a modest but high-quality production.
  • Fineness: Variable depending on the parts of the body, with the wool from the neck being particularly fine and delicate.
  • Natural colors: One of the most remarkable characteristics of this wool is its wide variety of natural colors, including white, moorit (reddish-brown), black, and many intermediate shades.
  • Texture: Fine, downy, and light, with a specific elasticity.

This diversity of natural colors is commercially very important for the wool industry of the Shetland Islands, where wool is often used undyed, thus preserving its authenticity and traditional character.

Properties and Recommended Uses

Shetland wool possesses properties that make it particularly suitable for specific uses:

  • Lightness and warmth: Despite its fineness, it offers excellent thermal insulation.
  • Elasticity: Its structure gives knitted items good stability and excellent shape retention.
  • Versatility: It can be used for a wide variety of projects, from the finest to the most rustic.
  • Textile traditions: It is particularly associated with two major textile traditions:
    • Multicolored knitting according to the "Fair Isle" jacquard pattern, characteristic of these islands.
    • Traditional lace shawls, so fine they can pass through a wedding ring.

These characteristics make Shetland wool an excellent choice for colorful knitting projects, delicate shawls, warm but lightweight garments, and all projects where authenticity and traditional character are sought.

Particularities of the Animal

The Shetland sheep itself presents characteristics that testify to its adaptation to a difficult environment:

  • Hardiness: Rustic breed having survived for centuries in difficult living conditions.
  • Size: Small size compared to commercial breeds (rams between 41 and 57 kg, ewes between 34 and 45 kg).
  • Appearance: Body without wool on the face, muzzle, or legs, small erect ears, and a short anchor-shaped tail.
  • Longevity: Remarkably long life expectancy for a sheep.

These sheep are reputed to be easier to raise than many modern breeds, having retained much of their primitive survival instincts despite their generally calm temperament.

Comparative Table of Wool Characteristics by Sheep Breed

Breed Fineness (microns) Fiber Length Annual Production Main Characteristics Recommended Uses
Merino 11.5 - 22.9 μm
Ultra-fine: 11.5 - 15 μm
Superfine: 15 - 18.5 μm
Fine: 18.6 - 19.5 μm
Medium: 19.6 - 22.9 μm
Variable depending on quality 3 - 6 kg Exceptional softness
Thermoregulating
Odor resistant
Moisture absorption
Garments worn close to the body
Thermal underwear
Socks
Hats and scarves
Baby clothes
Blue Faced Leicester (BFL) 24 - 28 μm Very long with characteristic crimp Variable Exceptional strength
Superior luster
Characteristic drape
Good softness/strength balance
Socks (without nylon)
Shawls and stoles
Outerwear
Projects requiring durability
Corriedale 22 - 34 μm 8 - 13 cm 5 - 7 kg Uniform and creped wool
Luster and relative softness
Versatility
Good value for money
Beginner spinning
Knitting, crochet, weaving
Garments and blankets
Felting
Economical projects
Rambouillet Merino 18 - 22 μm 60 - 70 mm Up to 8 kg (rams) White, abundant, fine
Elastic and resistant
Remarkable homogeneity
Heritage value
Fine and delicate projects
Exceptional garments
Pieces requiring softness and structure
Shetland Variable, finer at the neck Variable 0.9 - 1.8 kg Wide variety of natural colors
Fine, downy, and light
Specific elasticity
Authenticity and traditional character
"Fair Isle" multicolored knitting
Fine lace shawls
Warm but lightweight garments
Traditional projects

Conclusion

In this article, we have explored the main sheep breeds whose fibers are prized in the world of hand knitting. Each breed presents unique characteristics that directly influence the quality, texture, and properties of the wool produced.

Merino stands out for its exceptional fineness and incomparable softness, ideal for garments worn close to the body. Blue Faced Leicester offers a remarkable balance between strength and luster, perfect for projects requiring durability and elegance. Corriedale, with its versatility and excellent value for money, represents a wise choice for a wide variety of projects. Rambouillet Merino, with its heritage value and exceptional technical qualities, embodies the excellence of the French wool tradition. Finally, Shetland, with its diversity of natural colors and authenticity, allows for the creation of unique pieces anchored in a rich textile tradition.

For the discerning knitter, understanding these nuances allows for selecting the most suitable fiber for each project, taking into account not only technical aspects but also ethical and environmental considerations that are becoming increasingly important in our consumption choices.

The richness and diversity of wools available today testify to centuries of ovine evolution and human expertise. By consciously choosing your fibers, you participate in the preservation of sometimes threatened breeds and ancestral textile traditions, while creating unique pieces that combine beauty, functionality, and sustainability.

Sources and References

Merino

Blue Faced Leicester (BFL)

Corriedale

Rambouillet Merino

Shetland