Knitting and Crochet: Two Complementary Techniques Throughout History

History of knitting

Knitting has a rich and fascinating history spanning many centuries. Although textiles are poorly preserved over time, historical research allows us to trace the evolution of this craft technique.

The ancestors of knitting

Before the appearance of knitting as we know it today, two techniques are considered its likely ancestors:

Image: Nålbinding (ancestor of knitting) Source :Wikimedia Commons

The Nålbinding

This ancient technique, practiced by the Vikings as early as the 8th century, involved using a single needle with an eye. Unlike knitting, nålbinding required the entire length of thread to be passed through the loops being worked, which meant using small lengths of thread joined together. Numerous nålbinding artifacts have been found around the world, used for both clothing and utilitarian objects such as traps and baskets.

The Sprang

Sprang is another ancient technique, invented independently in many parts of the world. This method works using a frame or between two parallel beams. The yarn is prepared by winding it in loops around the frame, then twisting the threads together to create a fabric. Unlike knitting, sprang simultaneously creates two identical rows at opposite ends of the frame.

The uncertain origins of knitting

The precise history of the creation and spread of the knitting technique remains largely unwritten. However, historians agree on a few key points:

• The oldest knitted objects discovered are cotton socks, knitted in the round, dated between the 11th and 13th centuries, and found in Egypt.
• The finesse and sophistication of these pieces suggest that the knitting technique had already been around for some time.
• No ancient Greek or Latin illustration shows people knitting, unlike the many depictions of weaving.
• The most widely held hypothesis is that knitting was invented in the Middle East and then spread to Europe, initially to southern and central Europe, and subsequently to northern Europe.
• The first knitwear was made of silk, the use of wool coming later.

The development of knitting in Europe

From the 14th century onwards, the use of knitted objects spread throughout Europe. Knitting became an organized professional activity:

Knitting guilds

The first knitting guilds emerged in Western Europe in the early 15th century, with notable establishments in Tournai in 1429 and Barcelona in 1496. In Paris, the Saint Fiacre guild was founded in 1527, although archives mention a knitters' organization as early as 1268. These guilds functioned similarly to other guilds of the time, with a rigorous apprenticeship system and the production of masterpieces to demonstrate their mastery.

Working from home

Alongside the guilds, knitting developed as a domestic and rural activity. Farmers produced knitted goods for sale, often working under contract. In cities and the countryside alike, work was done from home and in large workshops, employing men, women, and children. Knitting was first and foremost a professional and subsistence activity, not a hobby.

The industrialization and evolution of knitting

The history of knitting reached a significant turning point with the invention of the first knitting machines:

The first machines

In 1589, William Lee, an English vicar, invented the first knitting machine capable of producing stockings. This invention marked the beginning

of mechanized knitting, although hand knitting is still widely practiced.

History of Crochet

The history of crochet is fascinating, although less documented than that of knitting. Unlike knitting, for which artifacts have been found dating back centuries, the exact origin of crochet remains shrouded in mystery and is the subject of several theories.

The mysterious origins of crochet

There are several theories as to the origins of crochet. Danish researcher Lis Paludan has proposed three main hypotheses:

Arabic origin

According to this early theory, crochet originated in Arabia and spread eastwards to Tibet and westwards to Spain, following Arab trade routes to other Mediterranean countries. Although it is difficult to find evidence of modern crochet in Europe before 1800, some sources indicate that crochet was known as early as the 1500s in Italy as "nun's work" or "nun's lace", made by nuns for church fabrics.

South American origin

The second theory suggests that the first evidence of crochet came from South America, where a primitive tribe used crochet ornaments in puberty rites.

Asian origin

The third theory suggests that crochet originated in Asia, specifically in China, where the first examples of three-dimensional dolls crafted with crochet can be found. The technique was further developed in Japan, particularly with the rise of amigurumi (crocheted plush toys).

The evolution of crochet

From drum to hook

Other research suggests that crochet likely developed from Chinese needlework, an ancient form of embroidery known in Turkey, India, Persia, and North Africa, which reached Europe in the 1700s under the name "tambouring."

In this technique, a background fabric was stretched over a frame. The working thread was held under the fabric, and a needle with a hook was inserted to pull a loop of thread through the fabric. This technique evolved in the late 18th century to become what the French called "le crochet dans l'air", the ancestor of modern crochet.

Crochet lace

Some historians trace the technique of crochet back to the 16th century, known as "dentelle au crochet" in France and "dentelle à chaînes" or "chain lace" in England. The word "crochet" itself comes from the old French word "croc" or "croche".

Interestingly, crochet and knitting share a common ancestor: Nålbinding (which means "to bind with a needle" in Danish), practised by the Vikings as early as the 8th century.

Crochet in the 19th century

Modern crochet, as we know it today, began to appear in Europe in the early 1800s. Its development was greatly influenced by Mlle Riego de la Branchardière, known for her ability to transform needle and bobbin lace patterns into easily reproducible crochet designs.

She published numerous pattern books, enabling millions of women to reproduce her creations. Miss Riego also claimed to have invented "lace-like" crochet, now known as Irish crochet.

The impact of the Irish famine

During the Great Irish Famine (1845-1850), Irish crochet became an economic lifeline. Crochet cooperatives were organized, schools were formed to teach the skill, and teachers were sent all over Ireland. Families depended on their income from crochet, sometimes saving enough to emigrate and start a new life abroad.

It was probably at this time that American women, already familiar with other textile techniques such as spinning, weaving, and knitting, began to learn to crochet.

Crochet in the 20th century

During the Victorian period and into the early 20th century, crochet pattern books became commonplace. However, with the advent of industrialization and the introduction of knitting machines, manual craftsmanship began to decline. Fiber arts were relegated to hobby status.

Crocheting enjoyed a resurgence in popularity in the 1940s, driven by necessity during the Second World War, and again in the 1970s with the "Granny Square" design.

The contemporary revival

Since the beginning of the 21st century, crochet has undergone a veritable revival:

• Crochet workshops spring up in major cities
• Internet and social networks facilitate the sharing of patterns and techniques
• Crochet takes on more modern features, such as amigurumi (3D characters)
• Like it did for knitting, the "slow fashion" movement and interest in sustainable crafts contribute to the popularity of crochet.
• New designers revisit this traditional technique with contemporary approaches.

This story illustrates how crochet, despite its uncertain origins, evolved into a textile art appreciated not only for its practicality but also for its infinite creative possibilities.

Comparison of advantages and disadvantages

Special techniques

Knitting and crochet each offer fascinating technical possibilities, particularly in terms of color use and stitch diversity. These technical aspects contribute significantly to the creative richness of both yarn arts.

The Complementarity of Knitting and Crochet

Far from being rival techniques, knitting and crochet are in fact complementary arts that can mutually enrich each other. This complementarity manifests itself in many ways, offering craftspeople a broader palette of creative expression.

Combination in a single project

One of the most interesting ways to explore the complementary nature of knitting and crochet is to combine them in a single work:

• Crochet edging on knitted pieces: Crochet excels at creating decorative edgings and finishes. Adding a crochet edging to a shawl, sweater, or knitted blanket can add a touch of elegance and structure.
  
• Crochet assembly: Knitted pieces can be assembled with crochet stitches, providing joints that are both strong and decorative.
  
• Embellishments: Crochet motifs (such as flowers, leaves, and appliqués) can be added to knitted pieces to create raised details and decorative accents.
• Mixed structures: Some projects can benefit from a knitted structure for flexibility, complemented by crochet elements for rigidity and stability.

Skills transfer

Practicing one technique often makes it easier to learn the other:

• Understanding yarn: Both techniques develop a sensitivity to yarn tension, texture, and the properties of different fibers.
  
• Reading patterns: Although the symbols differ, the logic behind reading diagrams and written instructions is similar.
• Three-dimensional visualization: Both arts develop the ability to visualize how a flat piece of work can be transformed into a three-dimensional object.
• Creativity and adaptation: Mastering one technique encourages experimentation and adaptation, skills that can be applied to other techniques.

Complementary projects

Some projects are naturally better suited to one technique than another:

• Fitted garments: Knitting, thanks to its natural elasticity, is generally preferred for garments that require a close fit, such as sweaters, socks, and hats.
• Decorative accessories: Crochet, with its ability to create rigid structures and three-dimensional shapes, is ideal for baskets, toys (amigurumis), and interior decorations.
  
• Mixed projects: Some projects naturally benefit from a mixed approach, such as blankets with a knitted body and a crocheted border, or garments with a knitted base and crocheted details.

Evolution and innovation

The complementary nature of knitting and crochet has given rise to innovative hybrid techniques:

• Tunisian crochet: Situated halfway between knitting and crochet, this technique employs a long hook to keep several stitches active, similar to knitting, while forming the stitches with a crochet motion.
  
• Crochet brioche: An adaptation of the traditionally knitted brioche stitch to crochet, demonstrating how textures can be reinterpreted from one technique to another.
• Knooking: A technique using a special hook with an eyelet at the end of the handle, allowing you to create a fabric identical to knitting but with a crochet motion.